Stalked by an African Predator: My Unforgettable African Safari Adventure

The Thrill of an African Safari

Picture the rolling fields of green and the serene British countryside, where chirping birds and the gentle rustle of trees create a tranquil escape. This familiar beauty, however, was about to give way to a far more exotic landscape as I prepared to embark on the adventure of a lifetime.

From a young age, I’ve explored this natural playground, marvelling at its wonders. Even the rain brings its own charm, as the earthy scent of rain on dry soil fills the air, awakening the senses in a profound way. Driven by a desire to capture the beauty I cherished, I realised my camera wasn’t enough to unlock the full potential of my vision.

 

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Determined to elevate my photography, I set my sights on acquiring a high-quality DSLR. Balancing part-time work with school, I saved diligently, meticulously setting aside every penny I could. After what seemed like ages of scrimping and researching, I finally invested my hard-earned savings into a Nikon D80—a decision that felt like stepping into a new world of possibilities.

Setting the Scene: Anticipation for Africa

With my new DSLR in hand, I dived into countless adventures, driven by a passion to capture every fleeting moment. Photography, I quickly learned, requires practice and patience. My relentless curiosity and perfectionist tendencies pushed me to refine my skills with each shot, even though perfectionism isn’t always the most forgiving companion.

I had always harboured a desire to travel, driven by an innate curiosity to explore the world and discover what lay beyond the horizon. The world is brimming with unseen wonders and untapped opportunities, and I yearned to seek out animals, landscapes, and places I had yet to experience.

One gloomy winter day, my parents delivered the most sensational news I could imagine: they had been saving for a while, and we were going on a trip to Africa. At fifteen, this felt like a dream come true. I could hardly believe it. Africa is a continent of incredible diversity, from its rich wildlife and lush jungles to its vast array of cultures. We were heading to Botswana and Zambia, via South Africa. To help visualise all our journey we have a large map in our house. It's great inspiration and a real conversation starter. 

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Challenges and Choices: Preparing for the Journey

The animals of Africa have always seemed magical to me. There are so many incredible creatures that are almost impossible to see anywhere else in the world. Of course, seeing them is one thing, photographing them is quite another, and capturing a truly good photograph is yet another challenge entirely.

I was especially eager to spot the elusive leopard with its enigmatic grace, and the cheetah with its acrobatic speed and agility. I’ve always been drawn to the rare and hard-to-spot, so among the animals I was most excited to see was the African Wild Dog, also known as the Painted Wolf. These amazing creatures boast one of the highest hunting success rates of any animal in the world, thanks to their incredible teamwork, as David Attenborough so famously noted.

At the time of my visit, they were critically endangered, with only around 2,000 left in the whole of Africa, according to the IUCN. Thankfully, their numbers are now on the rise. I hoped with all my might that we would be fortunate enough to see these remarkable animals.

As I packed for the journey, I carefully included essentials: sunscreen, mosquito repellent, a hat, sunglasses, and, of course, my camera gear—a 300mm zoom lens, an 18-55mm lens, spare batteries, and memory cards. Each item was chosen with the anticipation of capturing every moment of this unforgettable adventure. Insurance was another crucial item on my checklist. I was very eager to ensure I did this right. If you're interested in my camera equipment, check out my blog post here.

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A Tough Lesson: Security Concerns

However, I faced some challenges. The company we were traveling with advised that they wouldn’t insure my camera if it was on my person. They explained that there had been a spate of muggings at Johannesburg airport, so it wasn’t considered safe to carry valuables with you. Paradoxically, our household travel insurance advised the opposite, insisting that valuables should only be carried on you, as items were often stolen from hold luggage. I was torn, did I want to risk being mugged or having my belongings taken from my bag?

Given my non-existent experience of travel to Africa, I thought the travel insurance people would know better than I would. In the end, I decided that keeping myself safe was more important than my things and elected to put my camera in the hold luggage.

Unforeseen Obstacles: Arriving in Africa

After a long flight, we touched down in Johannesburg. We still had another flight to catch to Gaborone in Botswana, but the excitement was growing and growing. We were here—we were finally in Africa. After passing through security, it was time to collect our luggage before boarding one of those much smaller, and frankly scarier, planes.

Around the conveyor belt the luggage goes, one bag after another. My family's bags arrived quickly, but mine was taking a bit longer. Finally, I saw it coming, but something looked off, the zips were open, the bag slightly ajar. My heart started thumping fiercely, each beat echoing louder in my ears. I rushed over to my bag and pulled it off the luggage rack.

I stood there, frozen. I looked up at my parents, who had been talking, and without me saying a word, they understood from the look on my face. Slowly, I opened the bag. That wave of dread turned into a sickening feeling in the pit of my stomach—my camera and everything with it was gone.

Lessons Learned: Embracing the Safari Experience

There are moments in life when you realise that you’re solely responsible for what’s happened, and others when you understand that experience, though harsh, is the best teacher. I learned a tough lesson that day about keeping your belongings secure. Since then, I’ve never put anything valuable in hold luggage. It’s one of those mistakes you only make once—naïve, perhaps, but that’s how you learn. We filled out a police report, though I had little hope of seeing my camera again, and even less of resolving anything as we soon left South Africa for Botswana. To avoid such mishaps in the future, I now lock all my bags and carry around two or three padlocks, as they come in handy more often than you might think.

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As we embarked on the next leg of our journey, the excitement of the safari ahead started to return. We joined the rest of our tour group, divided between two jeeps—one carrying our luggage, the other carrying us. The dusty, red African roads stretched out before us, and the anticipation of the next day’s safari was palpable. But then, just as we rounded a bend, we saw it—the support vehicle ahead of us had flipped over and was wedged against the opposite bank, a plume of dust still settling around it.

My heart dropped. Thankfully, no one was seriously hurt, though our guide had to be taken to hospital. The cause? A broken steering column. It was a sobering moment—a reminder that despite our excitement, we were in a place where things could go wrong quickly. The mood of our trip shifted dramatically as we encountered the flipped support vehicle. It was a sobering reminder of the dangers that can lurk on such journeys. Despite the shock and the broken steering column, we were profoundly relieved that no one was seriously hurt.

The Raw Experience: Walking Safaris in Botswana

Botswana is one of the few African countries that offers the unique thrill of walking safaris—a rare experience, and for good reason. There’s something exhilarating about stepping into the wild, knowing there’s nothing between you and the untamed African bush. But let’s not sugarcoat it: this isn’t your average stroll in the park. Walking safaris are as dangerous as they are exciting, and there’s nothing remotely safe about tourists wandering through a national park where the wildlife roams free.

Yet, this danger is precisely what makes the experience so unforgettable. Every sound, every rustle in the bushes, sends your heart racing. You become acutely aware of how vulnerable you are in this vast wilderness. But in that vulnerability lies the magic—a chance to connect with nature in its rawest form. It’s a delicate balance of risk and reward, where the potential dangers are weighed against the extraordinary experiences that await. For me, the allure of this once-in-a-lifetime adventure far outweighed the risks.

Camping Under the African Stars

The next leg of our trip took us camping in a national park, with nothing but the African wilderness surrounding us. Lions, hyenas, hippos, this was no ordinary camping trip. A hole dug in the ground served as our loo, and the experience was as real and raw as it gets. It’s not for everyone, but I loved every moment of it.

We spent two nights at this camp, and I shared a tent with my brother. Our camp was near the water—not too close, but close enough that we could hear the hippos munching away all night long. We were sternly instructed not to keep any food in the tent, under any circumstances. The first night was one of the most unforgettable of my life. We were told to sleep in the centre of the tent and not to get out for any reason. If nature called, we were to use a pan or a bottle, but absolutely do not unzip the tent. Once we were zipped in, we were in for the night.

Dinner was served by the campfire, a welcome reprieve from the pesky mosquitoes. The atmosphere was magical, our guide, Baruti, told us stories of the African bush, which added an extra layer of charm to the night.

The Encounter: A Morning to Remember

The first night was one of the most unforgettable of my life. I woke up, groggy with sleep still clinging to my eyes, something pressing against my arm. For a moment, I was disoriented and confused, wondering why my brother was pushing me. But as I fully woke up, I realised he was on the other side of me—he wasn’t the one pressing against my arm.

Instantly alert, I quickly rolled back to the centre of the tent, my heart pounding in my ears for the second time in as many days. There was a distinct sniffing sound, something pushing up against the side of the tent. I sat up in the darkness, staring intently. I didn’t dare turn on a light, instead willing my eyes to adjust to the dark. Then, the silence was shattered by a noise so unforgettable, it sent shudders down my spine, a cackling laugh that I instantly recognised as a hyena.

My brother woke up at the same moment, and without needing any instruction, we both sat frozen in place. I told myself it was okay, that the hyena didn’t know we were inside, and that we just had to stay still, quiet, and in the center of the tent. The seconds stretched into what felt like hours, the silence pressing against my ears as I strained to hear where it was. Finally, to our immense relief, we heard it move away, its eerie cackle echoing back to us from a distance.

Lessons Learned: Respect and Caution in Wildlife

The next evening we were to go on our first walking Safari during the golden hour. Our guides, all locals who knew the area like the back of their hands, led us along a narrow track with bushes flanking us on either side. Despite the soft, golden light, we strained our eyes, trying to catch sight of anything moving in the brush. Suddenly, one of our guides stopped, listening intently. Without turning, he pointed to our right and said quietly, "Two giraffes over there." We peered into the distance and saw their heads, gracefully nibbling at the treetops.

We continued along the path for 1km or so, Baruti, our main guide, halted abruptly. His hands shot up urgently, signalling us to stop. The other guides followed suit, and we instinctively did the same.

The guides, armed with nothing more than sticks, stood as still as we did. Time seemed to warp, every movement exaggerated, every breath carefully measured. Then, one of the lionesses crouched low, her body coiled like a spring, ready to unleash. The atmosphere was electric with the sense of impending danger, as if the entire world was holding its breath alongside us.

“Don’t move. All look directly ahead at those bushes. Do not take your eyes off them,” Baruti instructed calmly but firmly. We peered into the dense thicket, trying to discern what had caught his attention. Then, in a whisper that carried a hint of urgency, Baruti revealed, “Two lionesses are looking straight at us. Keep your eyes on them, and stay together.”

A chill ran down my spine as the gravity of the situation sank in. We could now see the lions emerging from the brush, their movements slow and deliberate as they closed the distance, 100 meters, then 50 meters. Our hearts pounded in our ears, and adrenaline surged through our veins. We remained silent, frozen in place, while the guides, armed with nothing more than sticks, stood as still as we did.

We waited, our fate hanging by a thread, as she slowly lowered herself, muscles tensing, eyes locked onto us with an intensity that sent shivers through our spines. And then, just as the tension reached its peak—she abruptly turned, and within half a heartbeat, both lionesses had vanished back into the thicket, leaving us standing there, trembling with the aftermath of fear and relief.

Everyone breathed a sigh of relief, the tension evaporating like morning mist. Baruti, however, remained nonchalant. He knew the lions would retreat. "Lions attack when they have the element of surprise," he explained. "But we were one group, all looking at them." The guides were confident we weren’t in real danger at that point, this was a scenario they had encountered many times before. For us, though, it was an unforgettable first.

Our adventures continued with more unforgettable encounters. We had an exhilarating experience witnessing elephants up close, though not without their own moments of tension. One particular encounter with a bull elephant became a lesson in respect and caution. Unlike the docile demeanor of some wildlife, this elephant was agitated and displayed clear signs of distress. Baruti’s instructions were clear and urgent: back away slowly and take a different route. This experience was a potent reminder of the unpredictable nature of wildlife and the importance of heeding expert advice.

Among the most thrilling experiences was the opportunity to bungee jump off the Victoria Falls Bridge. At fifteen, it was a bold move, and I had made the mistake of mentioning it to the group. For the next 24 hours, I was subjected to a barrage of quintessentially British dark humour, with warnings of broken cords and crocodiles lurking below. Despite the playful jabs and my growing apprehension, I faced the jump with a mixture of excitement and fear. The adrenaline rush was unparalleled, and the view of the Zambezi River below made it a moment I would never forget.

Conclusion: Reflections on an African Adventure

Reflecting on our African journey, I’m struck by how the awe-inspiring landscapes and thrilling encounters shaped my perspective. This adventure not only offered breathtaking experiences but also taught me the value of courage and adaptability. As we flew home, I carried with me a profound sense of achievement and a heart full of gratitude for the incredible memories.

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A heads up: I’m excited to share that while I write all my content myself, I use Generative AI to help polish and enhance my drafts, as a Dyslexic writing is tough and it helps me create the narrative I want.